Here you can see a better view of the side of the Reserator 2 and you will notice that there are two parts to the units that are aluminum colored on each end, the end where you see the quick-connect connectors coming out is the end serves as the reservoir for the unit and also holds the submersible pump.  The other end if you remember from looking at the previous pictures holds the flow-indicator for the unit.

The quick connect couplers that Zalman uses are really nice and make connecting your tubing to them as simple as pushing the coupling into them until it snaps into place.  This is also where you will attach the "Degassing Tube" to remove any unwanted air out of the system prior to starting the system for the final run. You have probably noticed that some of the terms I have used in the review may seem odd but they are the actual term used in the instruction manual and the manual is so well written and has enough pictures that enough though the names of things may be slightly different you will be able to figure out what they are talking about.  For example - the "Degassing Tubing"  would roughly translate to the "Air Bleeder Tube".

Here is a close-up of the Quick-Connect couplers and you can see that there is a grey piece of plastic sticking from the top of each of the couplers, by simply pressing down on this latches you can remove the coupling from the Reserator 2 in the event that you need to move it or perhaps drain it and re-fill it.

If the second picture on the right confuses you, that is because you are looking down into the fill tube of the Reserator 2 directly on top of the water pump.

You need not worry about water spilling from the fill cap on this unit, simply because there is no fill-cap so to speak.  What you have is an aluminum lid that is held in place with four small screws and this lid has an O-ring seal around the top of it so that once the screws have been tightened down the chance of leakage is minimal. Also note the water tower portion of the Reserator 2 is also finned offering even more mass to help remove the heat from the circulating water inside our system.

Since we are installing the water block on a Socket 939 the installation could not have been simpler, the first step requires you to remove the original heatsink retention device and then using the two holes that held it in place originally place a nipple in each of these holes after placing a washer over the nipple to insure that nothing shorts out.  Then flip the motherboard over and align the backer plate up with two nipples and screw the nipples into the two threaded openings on the backer plate and you are finished except of placing a coat of ZM STG1 Super Thermal Grease (review link).